The Silent Distance

Scents of dust

And juniper

And dry grasses

Fill me with longing

For the far horizon --

Not as a destination

But, as a journey

Into the known

And unknown --

Beckoning

Ever onward

Into the silent distance.

Iconic Inspiration

As promised, above is an image of the completed puzzle from the post of a few days ago.  I apologize for the poor quality of the image, but puzzles are highly reflective of light and it is difficult to get the picture without a bright glare.

The puzzle was a Christmas gift from our grandchildren.  It was challenging in all of the normal ways, plus the fact that I couldn't use my usual method of assembling the border first and then filling in the interior.  Because of the unique shape, the border pieces often looked like interior pieces and vice versa.  It also had a peculiar cut to the pieces so that the corners often didn't match and what looked to be space for one piece ended up holding two or, more.

The theme of the puzzle was perfect; "Images of Texas."  There were a couple of items that seemed a bit out-of-place, however, such as putting the pelicans in the deserts of West Texas near El Paso and including a few saguaro cacti with the free-roaming horses in what might be the Guadalupe Mountains which should be where the pelicans are, sans saguaro, of course, since that particular cactus is native to regions further west.  It is found in the Sonoran Desert, not the Chihuahuan Desert, which covers parts of western Texas.

I realize there is limited space in such a puzzle, but other iconic images of Texas might have been included such as The Lighthouse formation in Palo Duro Canyon, or something representing technology such as NASA or, the computer industry of Austin.  They left out the oil and gas sector, miles of giant wind turbines, cattle feeding, farming, and most importantly, the diversity of people that grace our great state.

I am quite certain the puzzle was designed by a non-Texan and built in another country.  I didn't check the box to see.  The images chosen for it, though, are revealing in their nature; they show what people who didn't grow up here think of when Texas comes to mind.  Western films, many of which were made in Arizona or, northwestern Mexico, are the reason for the inclusion of saguaro.  The modern mindset that the energy business is "bad" and wild horses are "good" also comes through in the chosen images.  Inclusion of the Alamo is interesting because it represents so many things.  Its iconic facade moves a Texan's heart into his throat and fills him with a patriotic fervor that inflames the will to fight against the odds, even with knowledge that ones own efforts are merely to buy time for and to inspire those who will continue the battle.

It is also interesting to me that the images on the puzzle include a number which appear to be at sunset, or twilight.  I wonder if such were subliminally implanted in the creators mind due to the idea that such a place -- Texas -- was fading; that it was, or is, in the twilight years of existence; I would choose the bursting light of sunrise instead.  There is something which subtly differentiates the two times of day which comes across even in photographs, or paintings, if composed correctly.  I choose the optimism of sunrise rather than the pessimism of sunset. 

Even today, in many ways Texas stands alone -- apart -- a lone star resisting the tide of socialism that is sweeping the coasts of our country.  It isn't the resistance represented by the Alamo, but one more nearly represented by the central figure riding out of the flag with the blue of loyalty, white of purity, red of bravery and a single star which represents unity of all for God, state and country.

Yeah, I'm Texan through and through and proud of it.  The pride isn't one of being better than others, it is the pride of being tied to values which transcend the passing fads and vagaries of political winds with adherence to a code of independence reflective of those who fought and died for freedom rather than subservience to a government -- no matter the form of tyranny or, bureaucracy.  I pray that Texas will remain true to those values and that throughout the world (no matter where puzzles are made) we will continue to represent those things which inspire.

A Chuckwagon and a Stew Contest

There are few things that draw attention faster than a chuckwagon.  This authentically restored wagon belongs to some good friends of ours who know how to make you feel you have stepped back in time to the cattle drives.  This weekend it is parked at the Hopkins County, Texas, world famous stew cook off.  This is the 50th anniversary of the event and our friends usually take home the Grand Prize.

The rig utilizes a large canvas "fly" that covers the food preparation area and provides room for some seating.  It is a cool and rainy year, so additional "drops" which create a wall along the north side were hung to keep the rain out.  Even the stakes for the fly are hand cut Bois d'arc reinforced with rawhide for extra strength.  The woven bottom chairs and wagon-slat tables are also authentic.

Ignore the plastic trash can and bag of charcoal and focus on the chuck box which has a foldout work table as well as storage boxes and trays.  On the table in the foreground, the box is full of handmade from Mesquite, wooden utensils, including ladles, spatulas, stirring paddles, serving spoons and scoops for flour and sugar.  The keg at bottom right contains the sourdough starter which is used for the bread which includes loaves as well as Dutch Oven biscuits.

Everything is cooked in cast iron.  The firebox is used to build a large bed of coals which are then placed on and under the Dutch Ovens and as a source of heat for the coffee pots and the cauldron of beans you see cooking.

The Dutch Ovens sit over a bed of hot coals and have additional coals on top to create even heating.  These contain potatoes and onions while others contain Beef Brisket and still others are used for Cobblers.

The contents of each oven are periodically checked to ascertain readiness.  Everything is timed to come out to perfection at just the right moment.

Although you can barely see it for the steam, this is one of the Briskets.

Here the brisket is being sliced for serving.  The potatoes and onions are in the foreground and in the top right corner is the cauldron of beans and pork sausage.

It's hard to beat the taste of properly prepared Brisket.  Notice the "bark" along one edge.

Here is a view of the steaming cauldron of beans and sausage.  There was quite a line ready to be served by the time the meal was ready.

Of course, the meal wouldn't be complete without Dewberry Cobbler made in the Dutch Ovens from locally picked wild Dewberries.

The only thing that might have made the meal any better would be some Blue Bell Ice Cream to go on top of the cobbler.  Although it is thoroughly Texan, it just wasn't around when the wagons followed the herds to market.

Chuckwagons weren't typically seen in this part of Texas back in the late 1800's, but this one adds a real sense of that period to the annual Stew event.  It's a lot of work, but it is a labor filled with joy and a love of the authentic cowboy lifestyle of long ago which is still practiced on many ranches in the western states.

Coffee and Cinnamon Rolls

It's that time of year when all of the cows

Look for a swimming hole

To cool their hides and drown some flies,

Drink coffee and eat cinnamon rolls.

Well, I've never offered 'em coffee

And as to a cinnamon roll?

I wouldn't give it to my cows

It's for filling my own pie hole.

I've been to Alaska and even to Maine

And they sound good this time of year

'Cause it's hotter than Hades here in this place

And it's cooking this old hide I fear.

Every August it gets this way

It happens each trip without fail;

I'd like to replace it with April or, June

In that calendar up on the nail.

The grass is all brown, trees dropping leaves

And the water dried up in the creek;

I got stopped by a rabbit with half-empty canteen

Asking directions to the nearest water leak.

Texas in August is not for the meek

And no home for the Heavenly Host;

It serves as reminder to straighten our ways

Or, He'll give us to Satan to roast!

Some Texas Springtime

Springtime in Texas,

A place of contrasts

That stretches from mountain to sea,

Brings torrential rain

Or, dust storms on the plain

And days just as pretty as could be.

Some days are hot,

Sometimes it's cold,

The bluebonnets are bluest of blue.

Hail sometimes will fall

And the snakes start to crawl;

The thunderstorms often will brew.

If you don't like the day

Just wait a few hours

'Cause it will most definitely change.

It may be too hot

Or, may be too cold

Or, could be the perfect range.

It's a beautiful time

Unless the winds blow

And you'd better hang on to your hair.

If you've never been

To the Lone Star in Spring

You'd should hurry up and get there.

Texas Independence Day

The opening lines of the Texas Declaration of Independence read as follows:

"When a government has ceased to protect the lives, liberty and property of the people, from whom its legitimate powers are derived, and for the advancement of whose happiness it was instituted, and so far from being a guarantee for the enjoyment of those inestimable and inalienable rights, becomes an instrument in the hands of evil rulers for their oppression...."

It was adopted by convention at Washington-on-the-Brazos on this date in 1836 and signed by 59 delegates, each representing one of the settlements in the colonies, on the following day.

The Texas Revolution was brief and seems to have been a result of Divine Intervention in many ways.  The circumstances of remoteness from the center of power and the arrogance of the Federal Government combined with the "brilliance" of a strategic retreat (some might say it was purely luck) allowed the Texians to capture Santa Anna, the self-declared emperor and leader of the Federal military forces and thus bring a swift end to the conflict.

Some might argue, just as is done regarding the U.S. Civil War (aka War of Northern Agression) that the Texas revolution was about slavery.  There is some validity to that argument, however, it is placing a simplistic reasoning on a complex issue.  While true that colonists resented the Mexican Government's ban on the importation and possession of slaves, there were many other issues that precipitated the revolt.  Those issues included suppression of religious freedom, denial of trial by peers, the confiscation of firearms and the capricious imprisonment for various alledged crimes.  Nowhere in the document is slavery mentioned.

When we view history, there is a tendency to place events within the context of current societal trends and thought.  It is a mistake to do so in retrospect, however, it is highly appropriate to place current trends and events within the context of historical occurences which have inevitably led to the present condition.  We tend to look at such things with a reversed hierarchy that places blame rather than creates understanding.

On this day of remembrance it is important to reflect on the struggles of our ancestors that have brought us to a point in the human endeavor where we have much to be thankful for regarding our current state of liberties.  We should remain vigilant, however, to guard those conditions. 

Josiah Gregg

Yesterday, while heading back to Amarillo from Garden City, Kansas, I decided to take a route that I normally avoid for various reasons.  It was partly because I was a little off the beaten path after making a few sales calls on prospective customers and partly because I hadn't been that way in many years.

I came across a historical marker that I had never stopped to read (on Texas 136 northwest of Amarillo).  It was about Josiah Gregg and the Fort Smith to Santa Fe Trail.  It seems that in 1840, Josiah Gregg, one of the most famous Santa Fe Traders, explored a new route from Santa Fe to Fort Smith, Arkansas.  Instead of the well-traveled trail which followed the Arkansas River, he set off across the plains following the south bank of the Canadian River across the Texas Panhandle.

Gregg wrote a detailed account of the terrain and water sources which became invaluable to the U.S. Cavalry in the later wars against the Indians of the Southern Plains.

A brief history of Gregg can be found at the following link:

Josiah Gregg

A great resource for those interested, is the Atlas of Texas Historical Markers.  Whenever I have the time I enjoy stopping to read the markers.  There is a lot of interesting history scattered along the wayside of the roads and highways of the Great Lone Star State.

Monument Hill

On a bluff overlooking the Colorado River and the city of La Grange, Texas, stands a monument that marks the location as hallowed ground.  The bluff is situated above a river crossing on what was once known as "El Camino de la Bahia" or The Bay Trail.  It was a trade route from present day Goliad to Nacodoches long before German and Czech settlers created the town of La Grange in the bend of the river below.

Although Texas gained its independence in 1836, on September 11, 1842, Mexican forces under Brigadier General Adrian Woll captured the city of San Antonio.  Texan forces under the command of Matthew Caldwell gathered at Salado Creek in order to repel the invading Mexican army.  Colonel Caldwell's troops were succeeding in the battle of Saldo Creek on September 18th, but, in response to his call for volunteers, a group of 53 Fayette county volunteers under the command of Captain Nicholas M. Dawson were marching down from La Grange to join in the battle. 

A short distance from the battle at Salado Creek, Dawson's group was intercepted by 500 mounted Mexican cavalry and pinned down.  In the ensuing battle, 36 were killed, 15 taken prisoner and 2 escaped.  A more detailed account of the battle can be read here.

In the winter of 1842, Texans set out to avenge the brutal Dawson Massace.  Over 300 soldiers ignored official orders and marched south down the Rio Grande and attacked the border town of Ciudad Mier.  In the battle, 250 Texans were captured and marched toward Mexico City.  Within 6 weeks of captivity 181 escaped.  176 of them only to be recaptured a few days later while attempting to cross the harsh Mexican desert.  These prisoners who were not executed were taken to the Perote Prison, the same prison where the 15 captives from the Dawson Massacre were being held.

In his outrage over the defiance of the Texans, Santa Anna ordered that 10% of the re-captured prisoners be put to death.  A lottery was held to determine who would live and who would die.  The escapees were forced to draw a bean from a pot in which had been placed 159 white beans and 17 black beans.  Those who drew black beans were executed.

The remains lying beneath the monument on the bluff overlooking La Grange are of the 36 who died in the Dawson Massacre as well as those 15 who were executed in the black-bean incident by Santa Anna.  You can read more about the black-bean death lottery here.

Across the Cradle

Yesterday morning as I headed out of College Station and drove to El Campo, I crossed the "Cradle of Texas Liberty" which is basically the area of the original anglo colonies between the Brazos and Colorado Rivers.

My route lay through some beautiful country graced with huge oak trees of many varieties.  My favorites though, are probably the live oak.

Some of the places I passed through:

Snook, where I sometimes went for kolaches made at the Snook Bakery when I was in school at A&M.  The community applied for its first Post Office in 1895.

Independence, founded in 1835, near Washington on the Brazos which is where the Texas Declaration of Independence was signed.  It is the original home of Baylor University.  Sam Houston and his family lived there in the 1850's.

Brenham, home of the Bluebell Creamery (best ice cream in the world), was originally known as the community of Hickory Grove before changing its name to Brenham in 1843.

Industry, was the first permanent German settlement in Texas.  It was established in the grant to Johann Friederich Ernst in 1831 (5 years before independence was declared).

New Ulm, originally known as Duff's Settlement, was re-named when the local settlers petitioned for a post office around 1840.  It was named after Ulm, Germany.

Columbus, established in 1821 by some of Austin's original 300 on the site of what was believed to be Montezuma's legendary Indian village.  One of the first ferrys across the Colorado River was operated there by Benjamin Beeson in 1822.

El Campo began as Prairie Switch when the Texas, New York, and Mexican Railway located a switch there in 1882.

El Campo was my destination for the afternoon.  We put on a producer meeting for the area ranchers.  It was very well attended and considered successful by all involved.

More to come.....

Chris

Opening of "Texas"

One of my favorite places in the country is Palo Duro Canyon which is conveniently located about 20 minutes from where I live.  The photo above was taken from the overlook before driving down into the canyon this past Saturday for the season opening performance of Texas.  We went with a friend and his wife from Wellington, Texas, and one of his co-workers from Australia.  The performance, as usual, was outstanding.

We went early and enjoyed the steak dinner before the show (which, if you go, I highly recommend that you get tickets for the dinner as well as the show).  Our friend from Australia remarked that portions in the U.S. are unusually large.  In Australia, restaurants serve much smaller portions.

This year's program is filled with the art of Jack Sorenson of Amarillo.  You can view his web page here.  It just so happened that Jack was at the performance and signing autographs.  I was sitting next to him and his wife Jeanne.  They were very open and friendly and a joy to meet.

The play this year was very impressive and the talent outstanding.  It had been a couple of years since I saw the play and the changes to the script are excellent.  One scene gave me a little heartburn though.  The prairie fire.  I know it was well contained, but, with all the fires we've had this year and the extremely dry conditions of the area, I was more than a little nervous as the very realistic fire scene played.

People from all over the world view the play "Texas" each year in Palo Duro Canyon.  At each performance they give away a small gift to the person who traveled the farthest distance to be there.  In fact, Dave Yurik, the Director, announced that in the history of the performance, the prize has never been given to someone from within the United States.  We felt certain that our friend, who is from Brisbane, Australia, would win the prize.  He didn't.  It went instead to a couple from South Africa.

Y'all go see it!

Chris

Queen of the Missions

The Mission San Jose y San Miguel de Aguayo is considered the "Queen of Missions" and was the second of the missions founded in what grew to become San Antonio, Texas.  On our recent trip to San Antonio we spent some time touring the mission complex.

The view above is of the restored entrance to the mission which was founded in 1720.  The compound is very large and from outside the entrance we were unable to see the church.

Once we entered the gate I turned around a took this photo from the inside.  Notice the platform and gun ports above the gate.

In the first photo you should have noticed the round structure to the right.  The photo above is the inside of that building.  Note the cannon ports as well as the gun port at the top.  A platform at slightly higher than head height encircled the room giving the guards a place to stand from which to fire through the ports.  This mission was more than just a church.  It was a fortified city able to resist attack by Comanche and other tribes.

The above view is from the gate, looking toward the church.  In the foreground you see the foundation of another structure -- possibly officers quarters for the troops stationed at the mission.

The interior of the walls was actually a continuous series of apartments that housed the Indians (native Americans if you prefer) that had been converted to the Catholic faith.  In many ways, these Indians were slaves in service of the church -- tending fields, digging the system of acequias, and providing labor for other tasks as needed.  There were also compartments used for storing arms and ammunition and store rooms of other sorts.  Note the oven for baking.

As we approached the church complex we began to realize the size of the structure.  Again, note the oven on the right and the foundation of another building ahead.

This is another view of the church complex.  The mission was constructed over a period between 1768 and 1782 using the labor of the Indian converts.

Most people would call this yucca -- I grew up calling it Bear Grass.  Yucca is generally a broader leaf.  The showy blooms on these caught my eye.

I like the arches.  The contrast beween the greenery and the stone of the ancient structure emphasizes the "Old World" look of the church and attached buildings.

The different layers of this perspective were interesting to me.  Note that there are three rows of arches.

This was a rare moment that the walk beneath the arches had no people in it.

Water is always a necessity.  There were a couple of wells within the property as well as the acequia flowing just to the rear of the church complex.  An acequia is an irrigation canal.  If the inhabitants of the fortified city were cut off from the San Antonio River and irrigation canals, they would always have a supply of water at hand within the walls.

Behind the church complex were the Friars quarters and beyond them, a flour mill.  The mill you see in the photo was probably the most intriguing part of the mission complex to me.  What you see is a guess as to the way the original mill appeared.  This is a restoration that was done in the 1930's.  The grindstone is a monolithic block of chert.  The short post on the left supported a beam beneath the floor which in turn supported the water wheel and grindstone mechanism.  The wedges driven through the slot in the post were used to adjust the tolerance of the grindstone by slightly raising or lowering the mechanism below the floor.  The taller post was a crane that could be pivoted and used to lift the stone for cleaning or replacement.

This mill could produce about 50 lbs. of flour per hour -- more than enough to supply the approximately 300 residents.  The wheat was poured into the hopper at the top and the flour caught in a bucket.  This mill house has a stone floor.  It is more likely that the floor was made of wood so that in the event the grindstone was dropped it wouldn't break.  Such stones were prized possessions and difficult to come by -- likely being imported from France.

The wooden arm protruding through the window controlled the water flow by raising and lowering a gate.  The water fell approximately 9 feet to turn a horizontal waterwheel attached to the shaft which in turn rotated the grindstone.

Above is a photo of the church and you can just make out the Friars Quarters on the left edge of the photo.

Stonework above the entry to the church.

The Madonna and Child.

Mission Concepcion, San Antonio, Texas

The Mission Concepcion in San Antonio, Texas, was another stop on our recent travels.  Established in 1716, it was re-located to its present site in 1731 and is the oldest un-restored church in America.  The mission is located at 807 Mission Road.  At its height, around 1762, the mission boasted a population of 207 and had seen 792 baptisms.  It had ceased to exist as an independent mission by the end of the century.

Mission Concepcion

The ruined area to the right contained the living quarters of the Franciscans.

I'm always facinated by arches which were critical to the strength and stability of the structure.  It's too bad the park service finds it necessary to place modern benches and garbage containers in the structure.

The orginal paintings on the interior are very interesting.  Note the steel supporting rod at the top of the photo -- not original equipment.

The church continues to be used today.  It is interesting to see the contrast between the modern greenery and rug and the painting on the plastered walls.

The seating is very old although not, I'm sure, as old as the structure itself.  Note again the arched ceiling necessary for strength.  The dome that can be seen in the first photo covers the altar area at the front of the chapel that you see in this photo.

Enchanted Rock

This past weekend my wife and I took a brief trip to Central Texas.  We just needed to "get away" for a few days.  We left home with no specific plans but did have a general idea of the various "opportunities" in the area where we were headed.

One of the places we visited was Enchanted Rock State Park.  I have included a few photos.

Enchanted Rock is one of the largest batholiths in the United States.  A batholith is an underground rock formation that has been uncovered by erosion.  It consists of the distinctive pink granite which is the same used to build the Texas state capitol building.

The rock rises 425 feet above ground and covers approximately 640 acres.  The view from the top is outstanding.

If you click on the picture it should open in a larger size so that you can get an idea of the view.  The photo above includes an interesting feature of the dome.  There were a number of places where enough soil had collected in "low" spots on the batholith that plants have become established.  There is enough rainfall (about 28 inches per year) to maintain the plants.  This was a thicket of dewberries.  You can see the berries in the photo below.

Enchanted Rock is located a few miles north of Fredericksburg, Texas.  It, like many other batholiths throughout the world, was considered sacred by some.  The Tonkawa tribes believed that it was the home of various spirits.  This was likely due to the flickering lights that they claimed to see dancing on the giant dome of granite.  There are many legends about the rock.

The first well-documented exploration of the area was in 1723 when the Spanish sent parties to the area northwest of San Antonio for the purpose of establishing missions in the Apacheria.  Although the area that was to become San Antonio had been explored at least as early as 1691, the city was not established until 1718.  It quickly became the heart of Spanish Texas.

Many areas of Enchanted Rock are enjoyed by rock climbers.  We observed a number of individuals rappelling on the west face.  Following the trail, the hike to the top doesn't take long and is a fairly smooth walk.  It will give you a workout if you aren't used to climbing.

Muster

Aggie Muster. 

San Jacinto Day.
YouTube of last year's ceremony below.

A Political Note

Tuesday -- election day -- will soon be upon Texas voters and we will find out who the Republican nominee for Governor will be.  I just now saw a Perry commercial on t.v.  He was wearing a Carhart jacket and sitting in front of the Texas flag.  Some of the Hutchinson commercials try to pull off the "good-ol'-country-gal" look but somehow it doesn't quite work.  She just has a hard time fitting that image. 

The article linked below might be of interest to those of you following the race:

http://www.texasmonthly.com/preview/2010-02-01/feature

So, what do you think?  Is Perry positioning himself for a national race?  Perhaps.  I hope he can handle the attacks from the left if that is his plan.

What about Hutchinson?  She might come back as an Independent and face Perry again in the General election if the primary is close.  I don't think it will be.  The real question is her Senate seat.  Will she really retire?  If so, I think Michael Williams is our best candidate for the seat.  It may be an interesting year.

The Indian Blanket

The Indian Blanket or Firewheel, is probably my favorite wildflower. Its scientific name is Gaillardia pulchella and it is native to the central U.S.

The photo above was taken near the Canadian River in the eastern part of the Texas Panhandle. We are just coming to the end of its season. It is a great time to gather seeds in order to establish new colonies of them.

According to The Tulsa World, the following is the legend of the Indian Blanket.

"There once lived an old Indian blanket maker," he said, "whose talent for weaving gorgeous blankets was greatly admired among Great Plains Indians. Indians would travel many miles to trade for one of his colorful blankets richly woven in patterns of red and yellow.

"When the old blanket maker realized that his time was short, he began weaving his own burial blanket. When he died his family lovingly wrapped him in the blanket, which was his gift to the Great Spirit.

"The Great Spirit was pleased with the gift, but saddened that only those in the Happy Hunting Grounds would be able to appreciate the blanket maker's colorful creation. He decided, therefore, to give the beautiful gift back to those that the old Indian had left behind.

"The following spring gorgeous wildflowers bearing the same colors and design as the old Indian's blanket appeared in profusion over the blanket maker's grave.

The lovely flowers (Blanket Flowers) quickly spread across the plains for all to enjoy."